Rebel Stylist GR

Most “natural” haircolors work by opening the hair strand, eating and then replacing pigment, and then closing the hair strand back up. Fashion colors, however, don’t work quite the same way. Fashion color doesn’t have the chemical makeup to open or close the hair strand, so lightener is used to open the hair strand and remove pigment, then the fashion color stains the hair any manner of colors. Due to fashion color’s unique properties, taking care of blues and pinks is a very different experience than taking care of more common highlights, blondes and mochas. Whether you’re beginning your fashion color journey or are looking to try on more styles and colors, here’s some things to keep in mind as you make your appointment.

1. The Appointment

I book fashion color services for anywhere between two and six hours, depending on the desired end result. The number one comment I get when I tell people that is “wow… that’s a lot of time.” It is. Fashion color is a commitment in more ways than one. When you ask someone to create a work of art on your head, it takes some time. Typically, the thing that takes the most time is the pigment removal stage. While most haircolors work in a specific amount of time, bleach does it’s own thing. Lightener is applied to the hair strand and begins to eat away at the pigment in the strand. Some hair takes more time to lighten, often taking multiple sessions to achieve the desired result. There are a number of factors that determine how long it will take hair to lighten including: the amount of natural and unnatural pigments remaining in the hair, the amount of damage the hair has taken, the amount of sunlight exposure the hair gets on a daily basis, and the amount of heat emitted from the scalp. Making sure the hair lifts enough to ensure that fashion colors don’t appear muddy or dull takes an unpredictable amount of time.

Of course, once the desired amount of pigment has been removed, then its all about creating the work of art! Intricate looks with lots of colors and foil work take a significant amount of time and artistry from your stylist. Bring a snack and wear your patience pants!

Arrive at your appointment with dirty hair. The chemicals used to create vibrant colors can be harsh on hair and skin, and having a layer of oil built up on your scalp will provide some protection. Be aware that there is no such thing as damage-free hair color. Any time you apply a chemical to your hair, your hair suffers some measure of chemical damage, so you will be leaving with a slightly different texture than you came in. Talk to your stylist about what treatments will work best to preserve the integrity of your hair.

2. Wash in cold water

When your hair is warm, the hair strand relaxes a bit and slightly opens up. When the hair strand is open, it leaves room for pigment to seep out. During the color process, regular colors are able to “close the door behind them” as they enter the hair strand, making for much higher staying power in the hair. Fashion color is unique because it lacks the ability to “shut the doors,” which creates an environment where it’s very easy for the hair to lose it’s pigment. When you wash in cool water, the hair strand is much less likely to open up and create space for the pigment to leave the hair, which is why stylists everywhere will recommend you wash your hair in cool water following a fashion color service.

3. Color safe products.

Fashion colors are a commitment on your time, energy, and wallet. There are hundreds of products on the market designed to extend the life of your haircolor and promote the health of your hair. I am shocked on a daily basis that people will choose to drop a couple hundred dollars on a fashion color, but not spend the $50 on care products that will make it last.

For best results, I recommend washing infrequently in cool water using Amika’s Fadeblock Pre-Shampoo Gel, a color-safe, sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner, color-locking leave-in conditioner, and a color enhancing mask once every week or two. Talk to your stylist for personalized recommendations.

Fashion color is so much fun, and I’m always excited to create a colorful style. But, due to its unique properties, fashion color requires unique care. Make sure you’re ready for it before you take the plunge!